A Historical Perspective of Brazil

A bit of history can help you understand what you're seeing and experiencing when you visit Brazil. Just talking among ourselves, we can admit that most of us don't have a clue about how Brazil came to be what it is! It's not like they teach this in every high school outside Brazil!!!

Oops, Captain, I Think We Found a Continent!


Europeans stumbled onto Brazil by accident in 1500, when a Portuguese fleet led by Pedro Alvares Cabral was blown westward by storms as it was trying to sail south along the African coast. Fortunately, a crew member with sharp eyes spotted a mountain on the horizon. Aiming for that, Cabral's little fleet landed in Brazil at Porto Seguro, which is now a popular resort in Southern Bahia state. The Europeans didn't realize they had found a continent. They thought it was an island, and named it Vera Cruz. The Portuguese only spent enough time to scout around, celebrate a Mass, plant a pillar claiming the land for Portugal, and restock their provisions to resume their African voyage. Cabral had a scribe in his party, Pero Vaz Caminha, who recorded the events in a famous letter to the King of Portugal in which he took particular pains in describing the beauty and cleanliness of the native people they encountered, who wore no clothes and seemed to be charmingly warm and generous. Very little different from the Brazilians Cabral would encounter if his fleet landed on any beach in today's Brazil!

Having found a mountain but no gold, Cabral and his crew sailed away, bidding a fond adieu to lovely Vera Cruz. Over the next few decades the Portuguese visited the Brazilian coast sporadically, mainly in search of Pau Brazil (a prophetic name in a country where the word "pau" is slang for a very popular part of the male anatomy). The brazilwood tree was valuable because it could be used to produce a vibrant red dye for the textile industries of the Old Country.

Eventually it dawned on the Portuguese court that it would be necessary to permanently settle and colonize the new territories to keep them out of the hands of the Spanish, Portugal's eternal rivals who were grabbing up everything in sight in the rest of the New World. Brazil (which had finally gotten its real name) was carved up into a number of "captaincies" which amounted to a stretch of coastline and all the land behind it going into the unknown heart of the continent. The King then distributed the captaincies among his noble cronies, who were expected to develop the new lands on their own dimes! A few did, but many of the captaincies remained virtually unsettled. A capital was also established in Salvador, which was founded in 1549 and remained the capital of Brazil for more than 200 years, until the 1760s.

In the northeastern area that became the modern state of Pernambuco it was discovered that sugar cane grew there prodigiously! Sugar cane cultivation and sugar production, in case you didn't know, are backbreaking, filthy jobs that no Portuguese grandee in his right mind was going to do! The impoverished Portuguese peasantry weren't exactly leaping at the chance to exchange their hard-scrabble lives in the mother country to cross the Atlantic to toil in Brazil's sugar fields and mills. Without a huge labor force, though, it would be impossible to make the sugar industry successful, so the Portuguese decided that the solution was to enslave the native inhabitants and force those beautiful, warm and generous people to work on their plantations for nothing!

Unsurprisingly, the indigenous people were less than thrilled about these new, involuntary career opportunities. Slave labor on a sugar plantation was, after all, totally incompatible with their own carefree and ecologically-correct lifestyles. As a response to being enslaved, the natives either decided to drop dead on the job or escape into the trackless jungles, leaving the white men far, far behind. Unsuccessful in enslaving the indigenous Brazilians, the Portuguese looked to the next obvious source, Africa. Thus began the stream of literally millions of African slaves to Brazil, far more than were imported to any other country in the New World, including the United States. For most of its history, in fact, the white European inhabitants of Brazil were a small minority in an overwhelmingly black African population.

The Portuguese usually didn't bring their wives and families with them in the early days of colonization. This encouraged liaisons and even marriages between the settlers and the natives, and with the Africans after they were forcibly brought to Brazil. Unlike the uptight Anglo-Saxon colonists in North America later on, the Portuguese were a randy lot who seemed to be color-blind when it came to bed partners. From the five centuries of couplings among Portuguese, Africans and natives come the stunning people we know as the Brazilians. Same-sex couplings were taking place, too, according to the earliest records of the colonies! In fact, in an era without radios or television, or DVD players or MP3s, the main recreational activity of the inhabitants of Brazil seemed to be coupling! With anyone and everyone who struck their fancy! When the Church finally began establishing roots in Brazil, its newly arrived priests and envoys were "shocked, shocked" at the vile goings-on they encountered in the new country! Just as soon as they could send off to their superiors in Portugal and Rome pornographically explicit descriptions of the depraved activities everywhere around them, many (probably most) gleefully joined right in! Portuguese Catholicism was never as severe and ascetic as the Spanish version, so Brazil's laissez-faire attitude to all things sexual was born in the earliest days of its history. As a convenient old proverb said, "There's no sin south of the Equator!"

Amsterdam in the Tropics

With the sugar industry taking off, and European demand for sweets being insatiable, covetous eyes were soon cast on the burgeoning Brazilian sugar colonies.

The Dutch, in particular, had become a wealthy nation in the 1600s, and the Portuguese settlements in Brazil seemed ripe for the plucking, so pluck they did! The Dutch invaded Northeastern Brazil in 1630 and established their capital in Recife. The brilliant (and fashionable) Prince Maurits van Nassau was sent to govern Dutch Brazil, and for the next twenty-four years under Dutch rule Pernambuco bloomed into one of the first centers of science and culture in the New World, as well as a fabulously successful sugar-producing enterprise. Not one to be outdone by any other Renaissance prince back in Europe, Maurits brought over teams of artists and scientists to begin describing and recording everything they saw and experienced in this new country. It's from the realistic paintings by Dutch artists like Albert Eckhoudt and Frans Post that Europeans first formed their visual imagery of the New World.

Restored Synagogue Recife
Many Spanish and Portuguese Jews fled to the Netherlands when they were expelled from their homelands after 1492. Their knowledge of the languages was a useful skill in the former Portuguese colonies the Dutch had conquered, and large numbers of them emigrated to Brazil, where they founded the first synagogue in the New World, in Recife. The Dutch, unfortunately, got a bit greedy and overextended themselves in trying to gain control of more of Brazil. The Portuguese hadn't taken the invasion lying down, and managed after a relatively short period of time to drive the Dutch out of Salvador. After years of effort, the Portuguese succeeded in regaining all of their former territories, and the fascinating experiment of Dutch colonization in Brazil came to an end in 1654, leaving behind memories, isolated villages of blond-headed descendants of Dutch settlers, and a considerable longing by many present-day Brazilians that the Dutch had prevailed so that Brazil now would be as prosperous, civilized and well-organized as Holland is today!

With the return of the Portuguese, the Church, and the Inquisition to the former Dutch territories, the Jews once again had to flee. Most returned to the Netherlands, but one ship with Jewish refugees had to veer westward because of severe weather and arrived one fateful day in 1654 in New Amsterdam. Even though it was a raw, unpreposessing outpost, to stay the least, most decided to stay. An inconvenient glitch was that they were cordially unwelcome as far as the colonial governor, Peter Stuyvesant, was concerned. Not the kind of folks who take "no" for an answer, the refugees appealed to the Dutch West India Company, which owned the small colony, to let them settle there. Their request was granted. New Amsterdam, of course, became New York, so the first Jewish settlers in what became the United States were Brazilians from Recife!

The Portuguese Get Serious. Really!

Once the Portuguese expelled the Dutch it became clear that they needed to get serious about their colonial enterprise if they had any hope of hanging on to it. The hit-or-miss captaincy system was scrapped and real, full-fledged colonies were established to replace them. Salvador became the second city of the Portuguese empire, and for the most part the new colonies settled down to a long and somnolent existence. Greedy, rapacious and selfish, the Portuguese would allow no industries, no foreign trade, and no universities or printing presses in their colonies, the better to keep them firmly dependent on the mother country for all their needs for manufactured goods and higher learning. While the Spanish rivaled the Portuguese in rapaciousness, they were less rigid in controlling their New World colonies, so by the end of the 1500s, when Salvador was still a small provincial town, cities like Mexico and Lima had become great and rich, with universities, book publishing, theater and other cultural amenities.

In theory, Spain and Portugal had decided to divide the territories of the New World between them in the treaty of Tordesillas, with everything lying west of an imaginary line going to Spain and everything to the east to Portugal. This brilliant plan was hatched before anyone really knew the dimensions of the Americas, and the Portuguese came up with the short end of the stick! The lands to the east of the imaginary line only took in a small sliver of what is now eastern Brazil. Everything else was supposed to be Spanish. Fortunately for the Portuguese, the Spanish were even more crazed for gold and precious metals than they were, and having found mountains of gold and silver in their colonies in Mexico and along the western coast of South America, they could hardly be bothered with the pestilential, jungle-covered interior of the continent.

The Portuguese colonies were slowly growing, though, and in the south raiding parties of "bandeirantes" would head inland from the settlement of São Paulo, looking for land to settle and Indians to enslave (they still hadn't learned the lessons of that failed effort in the Northeast). Nevertheless, the bandeirantes, a bunch of ruffians and cutthroats if ever there was one, are held in the same regard by Brazilians nowadays as the early pioneers are admired by Americans. The bandeirantes pushed ever inland, claiming everything for Portugal, until they nearly reached the Andean lands held by Spain. This explains how Portugal ended up with half of South America, the "Line of Tordesillas" notwithstanding! Of course, tt didn't hurt that for a good chunk of the 1600s the Spanish and Portuguese crowns were united under Spain, thanks to twists and turns of the dynastic soap operas in the home countries. By the end of the 1600s Portugal managed to wrest itself from the Spanish and regain its sovereignty and monarchy. All of this was going on in the Old World during the period that the bandeirantes were laying claim to much of the New World. Since they were all under one crown at the time nobody got too worked up over it, and when the two nations went their separate ways, they just decided to accept the facts on the ground and everyone kept what they had. In the case of the Portuguese, that was a helluva lot more territory than they would have been able to claim under the old treaty!

Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend. Colonialists Like Them, Too!

Lo and behold, toward the end of the 1600s (and after Brazil was securely Portuguese again) the bandeirante expeditions hit paydirt! Diamonds were discovered far in the interior, not far from present day Brasília, and Diamantina became the diamond capital of the world! Fortunes were made in the new world, fabulous wealth flowed back to Portugal, and legendary figures like Xica da Silva, the beautiful and intelligent slave girl who conquered the heart of the Portuguese governor of Diamantina, entered Brazilian history. In the 1700s gold was discovered, too, generating a huge rush of prospectors. A succession of mining towns arose in the mountainous region that became known as Minas Gerais (or "general mines"). With untold wealth, mining towns like Sabará, Congonhas and Ouro Preto became jewel boxes of Portuguese baroque architecture, with magnificent mansions, civic buildings and churches adorning the new cities. The enormous mineral wealth of Minas Gerais had to be transported to the coast for shipment to Portugal. The first main port was the town of Paraty, south of Rio de Janeiro, which became a colonial jewel in its own right. The increasing importance of the gold and diamonds and other precious stones to the colonial enterprise finally caused Portugal to move Brazil's capital from Salvador to Rio in the 1760s. A new road was carved through the wilderness from the mining area to Rio, which became the chief port for the export of the precious cargo to Portugal. Paraty died on the vine and became a virtually forgotten sleeping beauty for the next 200 years!

Brazil Goes Imperial: The Unfilmed Epic!

The Court Arrives in Rio
Rio was a pretty rough-and-tumble town when it became the capital, and with the notorious stinginess and shortsightedness of the Portuguese rulers prevailing as usual, the new capital grew slowly and without much distinction. At least that was true until the beginning of the 1800s, when one of the strangest and most epic events of European and American history took place! The armies of Napoleon were rampaging across the Iberian peninsula, and Spain had fallen to Napoleon. Not wanting to experience the same fate, the Portuguese called upon their ancient ally, England for help. Of course, England was Napoleon's mortal enemy and only too glad to do anything that would give Napoleon fits! In no time at all the entire Portuguese court, some 15,000 people, with all their belongings and finery and libraries were loaded onto ships and escorted by the English across the Atlantic to Rio! Would this make a great film, or what? Imagine the astonishment of the Cariocas when the royal flotilla appeared one day on the horizon! The best houses and public buildings were commandeered by the Court for its own use, and soon Rio was established as the new capital of the grandiosely-named United Kingdom of Brazil, Portugal and the Algarves. For the first and only time in history, a colony became the capital of its former colonizer!

Dom João VI
The stunning event wrought huge changes on Brazil, as you can imagine! For one thing, the fashion and glamour quotient of the capital skyrocketed! The old colonial prohibitions on trade, industry, printing and education that had kept Brazil backward and subservient were repealed, and a boom was on! Queen Maria (the Mad) was officially the monarch when the court moved to Brazil, but power was in the hands of her son, the Prince Regent. Mad Maria finally died, to the relief of one and all, and the Prince became Dom João VI. Like so many visitors before and after him, João was absolutely dazzled by the stunning beauty of Brazil and its people, and he was perfectly prepared to plunk himself down and stay for good! Alas, Napoleon was eventually defeated and what remained of the moldering old Portuguese aristocracy and parliament began agitating for the return of the court and a reimposition of all the old colonial restrictions on Brazil. With the situation in Portugal growing increasingly icky, Dom João decided he needed to return to Lisbon and settle the hash. He left his son, Pedro, as regent, and essentially told Pedro, "Look, I'm going to try to straighten things out, but if they go ahead and continue being assholes, just tell them to screw it and declare independence!" Well, after long centuries of being assholes, at least when it came to being colonialists, the Portuguese stayed true to form. Dom João had to stay on in Portugal, and in 1822 Pedro declared independence from Portugal.

Dom Pedro I
The new Emperor of Brazil, Dom Pedro I, was at first wildly popular. He was a personable guy and he had thrown off the yoke of the Portuguese, after all! Things began to go downhill, though, after a few years. Among other irritations, it was hard for Pedro to give up the habits of absolute monarchy to which he was accustomed, but which didn't work in such an enormous, diverse and far-flung empire. Pedro was also a notorious womanizer, and carried on a long and torrid affair with the Marquesa de Santos, with whom he exchanged many, many incriminating letters! That was a good enough excuse for the elite to try to force Pedro out, because they needed to discredit him with the general populace which still admired him. Fortuitously for all, Pedro's father Dom João expired in Portugal at this time, and a civil war for the Portuguese succession was about to ensue. This gave Pedro an excellent face-saving opportunity to imitate his late father, and he, too, renounced the throne of Brazil and returned to Portugal to try to settle the hash there once again, becoming Dom Pedro IV of Portugal in the process. He left behind in Brazil his children, including his son and heir (also named Pedro) who was about two years old. A three-person Regency Council was established to govern Brazil until Pedro reached the age of majority, but everyone knows how hard it is to keep three, um, ambitious people in line and cooperating, and by the time young Pedro was around 14 Brazil was utterly fed up with the Regency. The Parliament took matters in hand by declaring Pedro an adult at age 15. The Regency was dissolved and the young prince was crowned Emperor as Dom Pedro II, wearing a dashing outfit involving tights, a feathered cape, and quite a large crown, and ruled Brazil for the next half-century.

Dom Pedro II Self-Portrait
Unlike his father, Pedro II was a gentleman and a scholar, fascinated by science and the technical and industrial advances sweeping the world in the latter part of the 19th Century. Related to all the great royal houses of Europe, Pedro was an avid correspondent, with an enormous hunger for knowledge of the world outside Brazil. For example, when he first heard about the invention of photography in France, he immediately ordered equipment, supplies and a couple of French photographers to be brought to Brazil. The first photographs ever taken in the New World were made in Brazil, by Pedro's photographers! He went on to become one of the great collectors of photography (the best way to learn about the world beyond Brazil) and was responsible for creating the scientific collections that are now in the natural history museum housed in the former Imperial residence in the Quinta de Boa Vista. Portugal's great Royal Library was brought to Brazil when the court fled Napoleon's army, and it remained in Brazil after Pedro's grandfather returned to Portugal. Pedro II added greatly to the collection, which is now the nucleus of Brazil's National Library, the largest in Latin America and one of the largest in the world!

Pedro II wasn't just a scientist. He was a skillful politician and mediator, who managed to keep the distant and often fractious provinces within the Empire. Under Pedro, Brazil entered into its one major military adventure. The Triple Alliance of Brazil, Argentina and Uruguay went to war against Paraguay, then a strange, isolated country under the grip of a loony long-time dictator. The War of the Triple Alliance was long and bloody. The Alliance was victorious, but at the cost of enormous loss of life and treasure. Large parts of Paraguay were carved off and added to the victorious Brazil and Argentina. Almost all the adult men of Paraguay were slaughtered in the war, and what remained of the country sank once again into isolated obscurity. In spite of all this, the war was a great unifying experience for Brazil, and by the time it was over Brazilians, perhaps for the first time, really regarded themselves as all belonging to the same nation.

The Fall of the Empire, As Not Told By George Lucas

Slavery continued to be the great stain on Brazilian history. The Emperor and his family were sympathetic to the abolitionist cause, but the power of the landed oligarchy whose livelihoods and prosperity depended on slave labor made ending slavery extremely difficult. Under pressure from the British, Brazil began eliminating slavery piecemeal. The importation of slaves was banned (although smuggling continued for decades). Slaves who fought in the war against Paraguay were given their freedom. A law freeing all slaves over the age of 65 was passed. Later, another act known as the Law of the Free Womb declared all future children born to slaves to be free. But slavery lingered on in Brazil, long after it ended in the U.S. and the Spanish empire.

Conde d'Eu, Emperor, Empress, Princess
Pedro was a great traveler (who knows, he might have loved this site!) and took extended trips abroad to tour Europe and North America, visiting royal friends and relations, meeting with his many pen pals, and attending scientific and technical expositions. His daughter, Crown Princess Isabel, acted as Regent during her father's absences. Following the long family tradition of the Portuguese and Brazilian courts of marrying advantageously, Isabel wed a handsome French prince of the House of Orléans, the Count d'Eu. The nationalist element of the Brazilian elite simply loathed him, and were convinced that his marriage to Isabel was a French plot to gain control of Brazil, perhaps in compensation for their failed imperial venture in Mexico with the ill-fated Maximilian. At the end of the 1880s Pedro sailed away again on one of his journeys, leaving Isabel behind as Regent, as usual. During his absence, in 1888, Isabel signed the "Golden Law," ending slavery in Brazil once and for all. That was the straw that broke the back of the Empire. The ruined, bitter oligarchy, united with the nationalists who shuddered at the thought of the Count d'Eu becoming consort of the future Empress, and the budding republican movement, were able to combine forces. In 1889, after Pedro's return to Brazil, the conspirators made their move and the royal family was forced into European exile. The Brazilian Empire came to its end.

Triumph of the Republic: Also Not the George Lucas Version

Av. Paulista, São Paulo - 1952
The rest of the story is no less dramatic, although it didn't start off that way. Under the Republic, Brazil experienced a succession of largely undistinguished and uninspiring presidents. This only made Brazilians nostalgic for the Emperor, who was personally still admired, and for the Empire, when Brazil cut a figure on the world stage and during which Brazil mostly grew and prospered. The end of slavery brought great demographic changes to Brazil. To replace the freed slaves, who largely drifted to the big cities in search of work, Brazil turned to immigration. Japanese and Italians were recruited to work on the great coffee plantations in São Paulo state. Other European immigrants, mainly Italian, Spanish and Portuguese, came to the city of São Paulo to provide labor for its growing industry. Germans, Poles, Ukrainians, Italians and other Europeans were encouraged to settle in southern Brazil, creating small family farms that didn't need forced labor to prosper. With the stimulus of immigration and increasing industrialization, Brazil continued to grow during the first half of the 20th Century.

Flirting with Fascism

Vargas and Roosevelt Meet in Natal
Politically, Brazil was at a stalemate, with a sterile system in which politicians from powerful São Paulo alternated in the presidency with politicians from powerful Minas Gerais. The "First Republic" collapsed in the 1930s, under the threat of growing war clouds in Europe and a certain local fascination with Italian fascism. Getúlio Vargas became president and then dictator of Brazil and ruled through the 1930s and 1940s, when Brazil, under pressure, joined the Allies in World War II. Brazil became an important supplier of rubber and other war materiel to the Allies, and Natal, at Brazil's northeastern tip, became an American air base because it is the closest point in the Americas to Africa. The air bridge that was established between Natal and Dakar helped supply the Allied campaign in North Africa and the eventual victories in Europe. Like Juan and Eva Perón in Argentina, who were also fascist sympathizers, Vargas is an ambiguous and controversial figure in modern Brazilian history. He is credited with many modernizing efforts in Brazil, like introducing modern labor legislation and advancing the cause of the poor and the working class, a legacy similar to that of Juan and Evita in Argentina.

After the war Vargas couldn't sustain himself in power and was forced out as dictator. His replacement in the "Second Republic" wasn't much better, and before long Vargas was back in power, re-elected democratically by a nostalgic and amnesiac electorate. Being Supreme Dictator encourages habits that are hard to break, and sure enough, Vargas was soon acting in heavy-handed ways. An attempt to assassinate one of his best known political opponents (as he was leaving his apartment building just a few blocks up Tonelero from the Atlântico Copacabana) went badly wrong. Vargas's security chief and personal enforcer was identified as being one of the would-be assassins. Rather than resign, Vargas chose to "enter history" by shooting himself in his bedroom in the Presidential Palace.

After Vargas, Brazil struggled along until the presidency of Juscelino Kubitschek (JK) who was an inspiring go-getter from Diamantina, the old diamond-mining boom town in Minas Gerais. Remember Diamantina? Brazil took some important steps forward during JK's administration, but he will forever be remembered as the driving force behind the construction of Brasília and the move of the capital from coastal Rio to the vast, underpopulated interior. Would you be completely surprised, by the way, to learn that Brasília is not very far from JK's hometown of Diamantina? A lot of people were skeptical about Brasília's chance of success and considered it just another visionary dream, but it succeeded beyond expectations. From nothing but a vacant lot in 1960, it has truly become Brazil's capital, growing to a metropolis of more than 3,000,000 people with the highest per capita income in Brazil! It has also fostered the settlement of the rest of the Brazilian interior, fulfilling the dreams of those who wanted to move the capital to the center of the country.

The Military Gets Uppity, But Learns That Money Makes the World Go 'Round!

Juscelino's successors, Jânio Quadros and João Goulart, were both weak, quirky men. Both were considered to be leftists, and viewed with great suspicion by the ultra-conservative elite and their good friends, the military. With the Cold War at its peak, and nightmares about Cuban influence in the Americas overpowering good sense in the halls of Washington, the military took over at the end of the 1960s with the blessings of the U.S. and ruled until the mid 1980s. While less extreme than the dictatorships in Argentina, Chile and Uruguay, the Brazilian dictatorship was bad enough. Political opponents, journalists, and just ordinary citizens "disappeared" or were imprisoned and tortured. Many opponents of the regime went into exile. In its first years, the military managed to turn around the ailing economy, and Brazil experienced another of its great leaps forward in the late sixties and early seventies, with great expansion of industry and huge investments in infrastructure. It turned out to be unsustainable, and inflation took off, soon turning into hyperinflation as the printing presses worked around the clock printing ever more worthless cruzeiros.

Before long, banknotes reading 100,000 or 500,000 cruzeiros were circulating everywhere, and prices of ordinary goods were being expressed in the millions! For once in their lives, just about everyone in Brazil was a millionaire! The problem was that a million would barely buy you a Bauru sandwich! In a series of unsuccessful efforts to do SOMETHING, bunches of zeros were periodically dropped from the banknotes and a brand new currency was announced, which was soon as worthless as the previous one had been! Cruzeiros got replaced by cruzados which got replaced by new cruzeiros which got replaced by who-can-remember? It was a great time for foreign visitors with hard currency, but living hell for ordinary Brazilians. The fall of the military dictatorship in Argentina after the insane Falklands War, coupled with the insane economy at home, put the Brazilian military dictatorship under heavy pressure. Whatever popular support the military might have had during the early boom years of the "Brazilian Miracle" had long ago evaporated under the repression and the mind-boggling inflation. In 1985 the military agreed to hand power back to civilians.

Tribulations of the Telegenic: A Rede Globo Super-Production!

The transition back to democracy was cinematic, to say the least. Through an indirect electoral process, a tremendously well-respected politician named Tancredo Neves was to become the first civilian president in nearly 20 years. On the eve of his inauguration, Tancredo fell gravely ill and was rushed to the hospital. The entire nation stopped, waiting for news of his recovery. It was not to be. Tancredo, an older man, didn't survive a post-surgical infection. Brazil discovered that its first new democratic president would be the vice-president designate, the virtually unknown José Sarney, a traditional-style political leader from the backward and impoverished northern state of Maranhão, which was his family's political fiefdom. Sarney managed to hold things together, although not in any particularly distinguished way. He was succeeded by the young, handsome and photogenic Fernando Collor, heir to another northeastern political fiefdom. Collor was heavily promoted by the Globo TV network, the world's fourth largest and the overwhelming audience leader in Brazil. Perhaps not uncoincidentally, the Collor family's media empire owned all the Globo TV affiliates in their home state of Alagoas.

It's hard to know how Collor could go so wrong. At first, through clever media manipulation, he was wildly popular and managed to convince Brazilians that he was a reformer in the John F. Kennedy tradition. Fernando was tall, good-looking and athletic, and was constantly being shown running or jogging, wearing the T-shirt of his "cause of the week." Behind the scenes, though, Collor's former campaign manager, P.C. Farias, was running a gargantuan bag operation, collecting monumental bribes from anybody and everybody in Brazil who could afford to buy access and influence. P.C. cheerfully raked in hundreds of millions of dollars before the scheme was uncovered, and life was good for the Collor inner circle until the roof caved in.

In an effort to stop hyper-inflation, Collor froze bank accounts and issued yet another new currency with fewer zeroes. Needless to say, finding that they couldn't access their savings and checking accounts enfuriated the nation. Matters weren't helped by Collor's millionaire playboy lifestyle, which wasn't trimmed back during this excruciating economic crisis. His air-brained shopaholic wife Roseane, daughter of a powerful political boss in the interior of Alagoas, didn't help, either. Neither did all the rumors of cocaine use in truckload quantities (nor the constant gossip in the gay community about Collor's adventures with hot aides and hunky soldiers whenever Roseane was power-shopping her way across New York, Miami, London and Paris.) Gentle readers may think this sounds like a plot straight out of a Globo soap opera, but wait!

In a supremely soap-operatic move, Collor's younger brother Pedro spilled the beans on the gigantic corruption scheme. It seems he felt he was being unjustly pushed out of the family TV and publishing empire back in Alagoas by Fernando and P.C. The story broke wide open, with the nation glued to the tube to learn the latest twist and turns. Brazilians were repulsed by the revelations of the unprecedented scale of corruption and the lavish lifestyles of the Collor gang while the rest of Brazil was up against the wall with frozen bank accounts and continuing hyperinflation. Students and other young people took to the streets by the millions, painting their faces the colors of the Brazilian flag and insisting on change. Their parents and relatives followed. What to do? What to do? Stunningly, Congress rediscovered Brazil's constitution, and impeachment proceedings began. To their incredulous amazement, Brazilians learned that they actually had a way to get rid of a corrupt president without having to resort to violence or a coup d'etat. Collor fought to the end, but he was impeached and removed from office and banned from political participation for many years to come.

"He Fell!"
The end of the Collor saga is more like Greek tragedy or grand opera than a Globo soap. The Collor family fractured. Caught in the middle of the war-to-the-death between her two sons, the family matriarch suffered a massive stroke and spent months in a coma before dying. Fernando and Roseane went into voluntary exile in Miami (living lavishly nevertheless; the Collors were rich long before he became president and fell under the spell of P.C. Farias). Pedro Collor died suddenly of a brain tumor. P.C. Farias and his girlfriend were shot to death in his bed in a still unsolved assassination. Fernando and Roseane eventually returned to Brazil, where they finally split up. Fernando still has demented dreams of running for political office again!

A Collor-less Interregnum

The presidency passed to Collor's virtually unknown vice-president, Itamar Franco. Itamar turned out to be fairly honest and managed to hold the nation together, although he had a number of eccentric quirks that amused Brazil no end. Nearly 70, Itamar considered himself quite the Lothario, combing his gray hair into a kind of trademark pompadour. Itamar went through several young girlfriends, with the breakups reported in all the papers, but he stamped himself indelibly into the memory of the nation when he was photographed from below while he was in one of the VIP boxes at Rio's Sambadrome during Carnival. By his side, with his arm around her, was one of the gorgeous queens of the Carnival, clad in a longish T-shirt. As it happens, that's ALL she was clad in. From below, the entire presidential press corps was able to get telephoto shots of the gorgeous carnival queen's, um, private parts as she was being happily embraced by the President of the Republic, who was completely oblivious to the cause of the commotion below!

Itamar did one genuinely worthwhile thing while he was president which Brazilians generally tend to overlook and forget. Itamar invited a scholarly academic named Fernando Henrique Cardoso into his government to try to get hyperinflation under control, once and for all. Although a sympathizer of the left, Cardoso applied traditional neo-liberal methods to the problem, and to the joy and amazement of the entire nation (and to the relief of the rest of the world that was stuck with Brazilian debt) Cardoso succeeded and inflation ground to a near halt.

The Future Finally Arrives in the Eternal "Country of the Future."

Cardoso became an obvious choice to succeed Itamar, and FHC (as he came to be known in the press) was indeed elected president. Popular when he came into office, FHC was considerably less so when he finally left.

In his first term FHC managed to keep the lid on inflation and began work on the Augean task of cleaning out Brazil's political stables. FHC inherited a 500-year-old legacy of corruption, malfeasance and bad management, encumbered by mind-boggling petty bureaucracy and paperwork, all designed to serve the interests of the tiny but staggeringly wealthy oligarchy and to keep the middle and working class subservient, without ever considering the welfare of the millions of Brazilians living in abject poverty and completely outside the market economy. Within the inevitable constraints caused by Brazil's crushing debt load, FHC started tackling some of the worst problems resulting in Brazil's immense social deficit. Somewhere along the way, though, he became convinced that his single five-year term of office wasn't sufficient, and he began squandering a great deal of time, energy and political capital on amending the constitution to reduce the presidential term to four years, but with a chance for re-election. There was great public ambivalence about the change and the need for it, and opportunities were lost while FHC was trying to push it through. He succeeded and was re-elected, but somehow momentum was never recovered, and FHC was never as popular in his second term as in his first. In spite of that, he kept inflation under control, the economy began recovering, and more progress was made to reduce Brazil's social inequalities.

After having been a candidate against Collor and FHC in both of his presidential campaigns, Brazil finally decided in 2002 to give a chance to Lula. Luis Ignácio Lula da Silva is a long time activist and labor leader from São Paulo who rose to head the Worker's Party (PT), the only serious political party in Brazil. (The other parties are just coalitions of convenience held together by the force of personality of their top leader.) Many people were just positive that Lula was a communist and was going to be the next Castro, but over time he'd mellowed out somewhat, and he was widely regarded as being someone honest who would look out for the interests of the politically excluded. The opposition candidate was gray and colorless by comparison, and Lula won with a landslide and a huge margin of victory.

Not to the surprise of some, in office Lula turned out to be a pragmatist who basically continued the neoliberal economic policies initiated by FHC. Brazil was still heavily indebted, the economy was in a recession, and he wasn't about to risk the kind of economic stimulus the hardliners in the PT wanted for fear of sending Brazil back into hyperinflation. At least for the first couple of years, the Brazilian public was willing to be patient, because Lula was able to convince them there was no magic wand that could undo five centuries of problems overnight. It helped that Lula was born dirt poor in the Northeast and went to São Paulo as a migrant when his mother took him and his siblings to try to find their father, who had gone to São Paulo to make his fortune and then abandoned them. As a child, Lula's family often went hungry. When he was older he became a shoeshine boy on the streets of São Paulo to help support his family. Lula managed to find his way into the metal workers union where he became a leader during the years of the dictatorship. A machinist, he lost a finger in an industrial accident. He moved on and up into the leadership of the PT, and eventually became its president and perennial candidate to lead the nation. When Lula was finally elected, he was the first Brazilian president who was not from the elite class and who had not graduated from university. For the first time in Brazilian history, one of the "little people" was in the driver's seat.

In the second year of Lula's administration the economy began showing signs of turning around, and indeed it started growing again. A devaluation of the real during FHC's presidency made Brazilian products and commodities good values in the export market, and sure enough, the export trade began to boom, as did tourism, driving the rest of the economy forward. Brazil has become one of the world's largest exporters of agricultural goods, including soybeans, orange juice concentrate and coffee, as well as beef and poultry. Brazil is also one of the top producers and exporters of steel, and the automobile and aircraft industries have been making huge gains in exports. Employment began increasing, and through a series of reforms access to banking and credit has been made much easier for the lower and middle classes and small businesses, stimulating a boomlet in internal consumption. The minimum wage has increased in real terms, and optimism about Brazil's future began growing again, along with enormous amounts of foreign investment in new industrial facilities, oil exploration, etc. Unfortunately, the fall of the dollar in the past year is complicating things, because the real has strengthened in value and that has started making Brazil's exports more expensive. Some exporters are starting to feel the effects. Interest rates remain sky high, in an effort to control inflation, but they, too, are starting to hurt the growth of the economy. The supposedly incorruptible PT has suddenly faced some big-time corruption charges in the past few months. While no one believes Lula is corrupt, or is benefitting personally from any of the shenanigans, he was slow to react, finding it difficult to believe that some of his comrades-in-arms of all these years have allowed themselves to sell out. Lula's high ratings in public opinion polls have begun slipping. There will be presidential elections in 2006, though, and so far no candidate looks capable of beating him for re-election. Lula's finally beginning to take action on the spreading scandals and has vowed to cut into the PT's own flesh if necessary to stamp out corruption. And here endeth this brief history of Brazil. The rest lies in the future.

So, Who's Laughing Last, Chuckles? A Final Meditation

New São Paulo Hotel
Brazil has forever been called "the country of the future," and millions of Brazilians died waiting for that future to arrive. But it looks like it finally has, although it's happened recently and for most Brazilians it's hard to see in the struggle of getting along day-to-day. But it's clear to any outside observer that in the 20 years since Brazil recovered its democracy, the country has made giant strides forward. Life expectancies have risen dramatically. Illiteracy has fallen just as dramatically. More people than ever before are part of the market economy and finally able to afford the kind of consumer goods they could only dream about when they saw them in shop windows. More kids are in school than ever before. Brazil has become a real industrial and agricultural powerhouse. From having an abysmal telecommunications system Brazil has gone in just a few years to being the fifth largest country in terms of lines installed. Brazil has more Internet users, and a larger percentage of its population using the Internet, than almost any other country in Latin America or the developing world. Brazilian scientists are now an integral part of the revolution in genetics. Somehow, Brazil has managed to keep a lid on AIDS, when it was spreading like wildfire throughout the less-developed countries, and has developed programs for AIDS education, prevention and treatment that have become worldwide models.

An infinite amount remains to be done, but Brazil in 2005 has come a long, long way from the Brazil of 1985, and it won't be going backwards any more. Years ago, the very grand and monumentally tactless Charles de Gaulle deeply hurt Brazilians when he said, during a state visit to Brazil, that it "was not a serious country." DeGaulle's crack has rankled Brazilians ever since. But guess what, Chuck? Brazil has become a serious country! However, it may be the world's only "serious" country that still has an irrepressible sense of humor, and a love and joy in life and its pleasures that make all the sacrifices and hardships more bearable, because even when things look bleak Brazilians know, in their heart of hearts, that there will always be beer, the beach, Carnaval, futebol, and most importantly, family and friends! Besides, who ever said that a "serious" country can't be one that also has fun? So eat your heart out, Chuck, wherever you are, because Brazil is not only "serious," it's absolutely, undisputably, and without challenge the world's number #1 country in the creation, production and enjoyment of fun! That may be Brazil's greatest contribution to human civilization. It's certainly the greatest gift she has bestowed on all of us from "serious" countries that seem to have forgotten that fun ever existed in the world!

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